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Allison Transmission service

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Misenplace
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Posts: 875 Michigan
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2003-08-07          61173


I have recently hit the 50k mark on my 2500HD Duramax with the allison transmission. I went to the Allison web site to view maintenance tips etc. According to my owners manual at 50k I need to change the fluid and the spin on filter. The Allison web site says the interior filter only needs to be changed at overhaul but the spin on should be done at 7500 miles the first time as per a new service post. Arrgh ! I called several dealerships to ask them what they charge and do for the tranny service. All the GMC dealers I called charge about $200 to drop the pan and change the interior filter, replace the spin on filter and top off the fluid. No flushing the lines or cooler. I thought that was a little silly as Allison says dont change the interior filter. I called a couple of Kenworth/allison dealers and they charge $75 per hour for labor, neither CSR of the two places I called new what they did for the service. I figured if I was going to pay the price tag I would have the system totally flushed and re-filled with Trans Synd Synthetic (allison's brand). In short the total looked to be over $300 with the synthetic fluid at about $25 per gallon. So I figured to heck with that I'm going to replace the spin on filter and just drain the pan myself. The dealer was at $36 for a spin on filter but NAPA auto parts has them for $18.00. Regular Quaker state tranny fluid was $6.00 per gallon Vs $6-8 per quart for synthetic. The spin off filter was full of fine metal shaveings which I expected. I only was able to drain 8 qts out of 22. So for $30 Vs $300 my current plan is to change 8 qts and the spin on filter every 10k from now on. Has anyone here changed the interior filter on the Allison themselves ? I assume this is a very fine filter. I would change it myself if I can just because but not at $200. Any thoughts ?



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F350Lawman
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2003-08-07          61194


You can get MOST of the fluid out of the auto tranny yourself. I don't have an Allison but I have a PSD and this is the way I did it. Mine also didn't require changing the screen so no pan drop was needed. I disconnected one of the return lines to the tranny and slipped a clear plastic hose over it. I then clamped that hose to a large bucket. Run the truck until you see some are bubbles in the hose,( a few seconds... maybe 10-20) shut it down. Add tranny fluid equal to what came out. Repeat until you have added and removed the ammount the tranny holds. I went a little extra just to be sure I got all the old out. With synthetics that could be expensive to use extra just to insure a good flush.

The process is pretty much the same as the flush machines at Jiffy lube. You will get 90% out and you will see the nice color the fluid has.

This where I got the idea.

....


Link:   

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Misenplace
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2003-08-08          61200


F-350. Thanx for the tip. I had seen others discuss this method on web sites for those that haul travel trailers. I did not really understand what they meant though. Did you use synthetic ? I also checked the rear end, It was a 1/2 quart low so I topped it off. I would like to remove the cover and completely drain it and refill. I noticed when I had this done on my Bronco that the dealership seemed to use the same gasket with some type of form a gasket. Any ideas on what type ? I know some guys are useing the aluminum rear end covers with drain plugs that add 3 more quarts to the capacity but they are about $250 for the cover. ....


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Chief
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2003-08-08          61207


Doc, I looked and searched high and low and did not come up with much as far as cheaper filters. I agree with Scott about how to get the fluid out of the trans. Here is another link to a step by step process to do this. It sounds to me like there is a risk of making a huge mess if this is not done correctly. ;-) I suspect you have probably seen this already; but just in case. I changed the trans. pan on my Suburban which had the 4L80E and installed the Mag-Hytech pan and Hastings filter. I don't Mag-Hytech makes a pan for the Allison yet but you may be able to cross reference the trans. filters. ....


Link:   12 Easy Steps to Change Fluid

 

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F350Lawman
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2003-08-08          61224


I used the regular transmission fluid not synthetic. I ran about 4 quarts extra through just to get a good flush. It still cost under 30 dollars to do and at least I know it was done right with quality fluids unlike the quicky lube joints :) I change the fluid every 20-25K and it looks almost as good going out as it did going in. Cheap insurance.

I did the Dana 80 rear-end in my truck I used that aerosol can gasket maker (Black Magic?) that comes in the Cheeze Wiz type can. 2 years and still holding strong. Used a stiff nylon brush paint remover attachment on the end of a cordless drill to scrape off the old gasket.
For the front diff. I just suctioned it and added fluid, it looked new anyway. Used a stiff nylon brush paint remover attachment on the end of a cordless drill to scrape off the old gasket.

Guess you might be changing the transfer case fluid also. That was easy, top plug for filling bottom plug for draining. Don't know about Chevy but on the Ford you need to fashion a "funnel" out of aluminum foil to stop the transfer case fluid from landing on the skid plate.

Chief,

you are right about the mess...I made one. If you had 2 people it would be a snap and this wouldn't have happened. They can start and stop the truck and you can make sure you hit the pail and it doesn't overflow. I had to run a line over to the drivers side and sit 1/2 out of the seat while I monitored the flow. ....


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Chief
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2003-08-08          61226


Scott, did your JD dealer get you taken care of on the 50 hr. service stuff for your 790? Dave, Geno's sells a neat little contraption that makes putting oil in the gearboxes a snap. I use one of those pumps that goes on the oil bottles I got from Wally World. ....


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F350Lawman
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2003-08-08          61249


Oh, yeah I forgot the 50 hr service. Here's' how it came out, the first price is the JD and the second is what I would have paid for like substitutes of good quality.

JD Plus 50 15-40 7.50 gallon Delo 400 6.50
JD (fleetguard) hydr. filter 17.00 Wix or Hastings 23.00
JD (Fleetguard) oil filter 5.99 Mobil 1 11.99
JD Lo-Vis hydraulic fluid 35.00 five gallons Others? 25.00

So Chief, it was just about a wash and I got all JD parts so nobody can argue I didn't use the right stuff. Don't think my other choices would have been any lessor in quality but why mix and match when the dealer had it all under one roof. Also they have a record of all my purchese under my account in case I have a catastrophic failure and maintenance is called into question. You can't be too safe ;)

The synthetic choice was made for me when my JD dealer laughed and said he can't get any Synthetic 0-40 it is sold out. Says he's been having a problem getting that and another oil they use in big tractors. So next oil change I'll switch to 0-40. Would have been nice to have it for the cold winter but I'm sure my tractor will survive :)

As we discussed I plan on doing the fluid/filter changes at the beginning of every spring season even if I don't make the 200 hours.

I also have some kind of suction gun I got from an autoparts store years ago. In a pinch( when I lose the right tool) I have also used those hand operated suction pumps that you use to fill kerosene heaters.

....


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Misenplace
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2003-08-08          61262


Allison is makeing a deep trans pan but I dont want to go that route due to my skid plates. Mag hytech is the one makeing the finned rear end aluminum covers at $250 ish but the same holds true as I get pretty deep in the woods. Aluminum can crack when whacked and the oem steel just bends or gets dented. Chief I will deinately be looking at ginos for one of those pump bottles. The electronic transfer case was a royal pia to refill. The top plug is right against the body. I used a emptyed out 90 weight gear oil bottle to squirt it in but it was a little messy. F-350, did you use a new gasket on the rear end as well as the form a gasket ? The front differential was easy to change but the fluid there was low. When I drained the oil the plug had a kind of pin on it. I looked in the drain hole and the bottom interor of the case was thick and goopy. I'll be changeing theese fluids every 25k from now on. Its definately cheap insurance. ....


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F350Lawman
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2003-08-08          61302


No that form a gasket makes a perfect seal. All you do is apply it, let it set according to directions (5 minutes?) and then put the cover on. It is just starting to get a little firm and then the even pressure of tightening all bolts a little at a time creates the gasket. I think it is better, I have never had a problem and I can't say the same for some of those cheap gaskets some companies make. I think I read on another forum that Dana does make a gasket for the Dana 80 but in the Ford application they use gasket maker.

Whatever rearend the Chevy has I can't see you having any problem with the gasket maker. I am suprised the fluid was gunky especially in the front as most of us don't use 4 wheel THAT often and really beat on the front end. You MUST BE deep in the woods :) I wouldn't worry too much I remeber some guys making comments that their factory Ford fluid was green nasty looking stuff.

Don't forget your limited slip fluid if the rear end calls for it. I use the Dodge stuff after several people on the Ford truck forum said the thought it was better than the Ford stuff. No chatter when turning they said. ....


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Misenplace
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2003-08-08          61303


I do have a limited slip axle but I dont see anywhere in the book that it calls for any additive or graphite. It does specify Synthetic though. ....


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F350Lawman
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2003-08-08          61307


I don't want to steer you wrong. My Chevy van does not have LS so I don't know. Maybe with the synthetic they call for you don't need the limited slip additive. I can remeber some Ford guys saying that they ran Amsoil synthetic rear-end fluid and with it you didn't need LS additive.

I can only say my Ford called for synthetic AND additive. I am sure another Chevy owner will have the answer.

Sorry ....


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Chief
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2003-08-08          61312


Doc, I am not sure what axle you have but I had the GM 14 bolt semi-floater axle on my K2500 Suburban. When I put the Mag-Hytech diff. covers on them, I filled them with Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90. The bottle and the website says that the oil already has a limited slip friction modifier added to it. I just put it in and did not add anything. It worked great but that is no guarantee yours will but after you fill the diff. Drive around in figure 8's to distribute the new oil and work the posi. unit. If you continue to get chattering after a reasonable amount of time, you may have to add some friction modifier. Try adding about 6 to 8 onces at a time. You don't want to over do it. ....


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F350Lawman
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2003-08-08          61315


That's what I thought Chief. i rmembered the AMsoil not needing it.

I love the looks you get at the local supermarket parking lot when you go and do the figure 8's :) With these trucks an airport might be better, darn turning radius is HUGE. ....


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Chief
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2003-08-08          61318


Yes indeed! You need a 40 acre field to turn around in. That is one reason I got that 3 pt. trailer hitch reciever fabbed up. ....


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Misenplace
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2003-08-09          61338


All the Fords I have had indicted adding 4 oz of graphite. I think the Dodge does as well but its so new yet I haven't double checked. No mention of it in my owners manual. If I remember right the LS in the Duramax is actually made from a graphite plate or something different than the historical standard. I have been very happy with the mobil 1 synthetics so I will be useing their gear lube. I did top off with a Valvoline synthetic but I intend to drain that out. I would use Delvac 1 if I could find it at a reasonable price but wally world here finally has the Rotella synthetic at 12.88 a gallon. ....


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