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Block heater or hose heater

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tomwilli
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 28 Ontario Canada
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2011-01-14          176409



Hi,

CUB 7304 with the 30 HP Diatsu Turbo deisel.

Beast to start in the cold now so thinking bout block heater or hose heater.

Took to a local deal and since the 7304 is a bit of an orphan, they are haaving problems with getting block heater.

Anyone have any idea of the size needed ( ie 30mm ) to fit in frost plug.

They are also reluctant to cut lower rad hose to put in a hose heater since it seems to be a combo of steel and rubber. They have not seen a hose like this and so don't want to cut it or simply replace it. They are not sure why hose is designed this way. Maybe because of Turbo charger and concern about hose collapse but the only similar hose they have seen has had a steel spring inside,

So, any help here re frost plug size or part # of block heater that would fit OR an explanation re hose type so I can decide if safe to cut or replace ?

Dealer does not want to " cobble " something together.

Thanks for any help





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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2011-01-14          176413


How about a magnetic block heater? ....


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Block heater or hose heater

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2011-01-15          176415


Most diesels benefit from starting aids such as decompression, glow plugs, battery blanket. For heating the engine too, there are at least five options.

One kind of magnetic just sticks under the oil pan. Simplest for occasional use but you have to get down there to attach it and pull it off each time. Attaching a light-weight handle can make this easier. On some 4WD models the shaft doesn't allow enough clearance to put it in the middle of the pan.

The other kind you clean the pan like new, adhere the blanket-like pad on, and seal the edges. The chemicals come with it. An easy permanent kind (once on) but not the best if you drive over rocks/brush/debris unless you fabricate a skid-plate for it.

A block one is more work to install, mainly in removing the freeze plug. Then you should have no trouble getting the right size plug. You can forget it, and you'll get the most efficient heat from it. But if it fails and needs replacing (which can happen decades later) it can be hard to remove if you used thread-locker or sealant (may have to drain and heat the block area).

The fourth option is a lower rad-hose one, which doesn't seem ideal for yours.

A quick-and-dirty alternative is to floor-mount a heat lamp (the kind that won't shatter when ice drips on it) and just drive over it. ....


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Block heater or hose heater

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tomwilli
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 28 Ontario Canada
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2011-01-15          176416


Hi,

Thanks for the response.

Hadn't thought about a magnetic heater so may be an option for me.

Do they have to be removed before using the tractor ?

Thanks again ....


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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2011-01-15          176418


Magnetic heaters are grossly inefficient. They typically have no more than 50% contact area which translates to a lot of free air heat loss. And dipstick heaters? Those I've seen have no thermostat. After a number of reported engine fires, I'm surprised anybody's even selling them any more. Coolant heaters - particularly block heaters, do nothing to heat the oil.

That said, a competently installed pan heater is highly efficient due to full surface contact. And when correctly sized, they are designed not to heat the oil above 125F. Oil thins as it warms, which takes a LOT of stress of the engine itself - not to mention the battery and starter motor. Plus - the pan being the lowest part of the engine - heat rises. The warm oil contributes heat to the coolant (and therefore the engine block) by simple conduction.

I've had Wolverines on both my current tractors from Day One, and on a YM240 before that. They're parked in open/unheated sheds, and never failed to start right up on the first attempt - even below zero (F). The current heaters are a combined 12 years old now, and have worked through plenty of high grass and brush in that time. No skid plates either. So when the edges are properly sealed (sealant included) and the cords sensibly routed - and the tractor is used as the manufacturer intended - there's very VERY little chance of ever getting a quality pan heater snagged, much less torn off. Having said that, there are some junk pan heaters on the market that should be avoided.

//greg// ....


Link:   oil pan heater

 

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Block heater or hose heater

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2011-01-15          176420


Magnetics are removed prior to driving unless attached so it won't dislodge due to vibration or bumps, and its power cord is secured.

I put it under the oil pan so it warms the oil rather than the engine. Ken mentioned putting it on the block. Seems a good idea.

The blanket type is like a magnetic in that you don't use tools to apply, but is permanent. I'd protect the power cord where it's underneath.

Internal ones (block, hose, heated oil dipstick if still available) and the blanket-type only need a few hours of current. As for magnets, they don't have much power and the heat is applied locally and inefficiently, so you might leave it on all night for any effect. ....


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Block heater or hose heater

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2011-01-17          176444


As heaters on engines here are very rare please don't take my thought as more than a thought. Was trying to point out there was more options than the two mentioned.
....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2011-01-17          176446


Tomwilli,

The lower radiator hose has a wire coil inside it to keep it from collapsing. That's the suction hose on the intake side of the water pump. If not for the wire coil inside, the hose would collapse and restrict the water flow.

The upper radiator hose is attached to the output side of the pump. It's under a relatively small amount of pressure, which keeps it from collapsing.

There's nothing wrong with cutting the lower radiator hose and installing a hose heater. The remaining wire coil will do the job.

Engine heaters, of any type, are very effective, especially when the tractor is stored out of the wind. (You don't need a heated shed.....just a wind break) These heaters produce a relatively small amount of heat. Being out of the wind greatly increases their ability to do the job.

Joel ....


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Block heater or hose heater

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tomwilli
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 28 Ontario Canada
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2011-01-18          176485


Hi,

Resolved after a week of trial and error.

Block heater from a kubota RTV fits fine.

Thanks for all the thoughts

....


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