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best snow removal attachment for 2320

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juneau
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16 Juneau Alaska
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2006-10-25          136291


I think I just sold my kawasaki mule so I am going to buy a new JD 2320. I live in Juneau, Alaska and we get wet wet wet snow and then rain and then ice. I need to plow several driveways and one or two small parking lots. Space for stacking snow is limited. Blowing snow a little ify close to houses / shop/ highway don't want to send rocks in the wrong direction. I am thinking of using the JD quik attach front blade then switching to the loader when I need to move plies around. Any advice would be helpful. Also would like to know about traction for tires. I will get chains and the spacer kit for the front end but only chain up when it is really icy. I saw a thread talking about studs and also about sniping the tires any thoughts?


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2006-10-25          136292


I lived in Anchorage for many years. On the traction issue you can use the same type of radial studded tires on the rear of your tractor that you use on your pick-up.

In my pics you can see what pick-up/SUV tires look like on a similar tractor. Front turf tires are better for snow than the R-4's.

Does the 2320 have split brakes? If it does you can chain up the rears and use the brakes to help you steer.

In my experience you won't get significantly more traction by chaining the front tires unless you are operating in Chinook conditions on very, very steep roads.

Down-side: adding spacers to the front wheels will put added stress on the bearings and may void the warranty.

I have used my Deere with the rear radials chained up and a front plow with the front turfs left as is. I live on a fairly steep hillside in NV and the chained radials were just about unstoppable. There was no wheel spin at all and it would just grunt right through the drifts.

If I was back in Anchorage I would use the tractor just as you see it in the pictures except I would stud the rear tires.




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juneau
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16 Juneau Alaska
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2006-10-25          136293


So do you buy a whole new set of rims and tires or take them in to be switch out to R-4s for the summer? Can I get studs on the front tires also? Sounds like if I have studs and chains for the rear only I would be in good shape. ....


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2006-10-25          136296


My R-4's are sitting in the shed collecting dust. The radial truck tires do EVERYTHING better, winter and summer.

I can't imagine a worse tire for icy conditions that a an R-4. You can chain them and drill them for studs, but they are basically "slicks" with ultra hard rubber.

You could certainly have the R-4 front tires drilled for studs as there is lots of rubber there. I think the front turfs might be a little too thin to drill.

If I was in your situation I would order the tractor with factory turfs and go from there. You might be real happy with the turfs and a set of rear chains. ....


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juneau
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16 Juneau Alaska
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2006-10-25          136297


I am alittle concerned about marking up the pavement on a couple of really nice driveways so will try to limit chain use to extreme ice and really slick deep snow. Can't run the studs on the highway for summer use so I will either need two sets of tires or have them studded and removed. Might be that the radials without studs do just fine. I really like the stopping power of studs on the truck. It sure works to have studs all the way around on it. Biggest concern is sliding down an icy drive into someones garage door. ....


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2006-10-25          136305


I remember those weather conditions. Several times I woke up in the morning to find all the cars had slide out of the driveway and into the street overnight. And it didn't matter if they had bare tires, or studs or even chains. They would all slide until they hit a level spot.

So I'm not sure how you can avoid sliding into a house when it is too slick to walk..... short of backing in first with a sand spreader.

Also consider that the 54 inch front blade you are considering and the FEL have enough down pressure to lift the front end off the ground. So if you find yourself in a slow slide.... and believe me it will be slow..... you can always drop the blade on the bucket to get it stopped until you can get some sand on the situation. You can easilly carry a half ton of sand on the rear end of the tractor with the right convenance.

Did you plan on driving the tractor on the highway? If so, how far on a regular basis?

I was a cop in Alaska, and I am not sure the seasonal stud laws apply to non-licensed vehicles. I can't imagine how you could demonstrate damage to the road with a 1500 pound tractor traveling at 11 mph. ....


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juneau
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16 Juneau Alaska
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2006-10-25          136306


What 3 pt spreader works well ? I will probably get a load of sand or pea gravel in my dump trailer pile it behind the shop and load the spreader with the excavator. Then In icy conditions I will back in while I spread. Of course if there is snow to plow it won't be that icy.
Will drive around Juneau as needed, When snow plowing probably about 3 miles one way each day plowing as I go. much farther than that and I'll be thinking about the trailer. The rest of the year mostly to the harbor about a mile one way sometimes pulling my 14 foot boat. Sometimes carrying things I need on the boat with the forks and 3 pt platform.
Got at least another inch of rain today snow at about 800 feet.
Just got back from an emergency driveway rebuild washed out from the rain. ....


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2006-10-25          136309


I haven't used a three point spreader, but I know someone around here has. ....


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juneau
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16 Juneau Alaska
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2006-10-26          136326


Just been surfing and found a king cutter spreader at Northern tool. Will this work for sanding? How much will I be able to do, say in driveway length, before I need to refill? Pasted a link to it below.

I am going over to the local tire shop today and find out about studs for R-4s. If that works out I will stud all 4, carry chains for the rear and should make a pretty good plow rig. I'll just leave the studs on year round. ....


Link:   http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200

 

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2006-10-26          136327


Lets talk about the FEL/bucket.

Seems like you have a business where you might be moving dirt. With that in mind I would stay with the 53" bucket. If the major use is moving snow or other light weight materials I would opt for the 72" bucket.

Also: Are you getting the FEL with the quick-detach bucket? If so, you can get a real nice set pallet forks for it. ....


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juneau
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16 Juneau Alaska
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2006-10-26          136329


Here's my plan so far subject to change as I learn more about CUTs.

JD 2320 200cx loader with quick attach bucket quik attch forks. Front mount with snow blade. Switch from plowing to loader as needed. 3 pt I tach weight box with reciever hitch mounted in it . 3 pt spreader 3 pt carrying platform and cab. R4 tires with studs.

I hope to get lots of critical comments so I have as much info as possible in making this purchase.

This tractor will be used year round I may need 2 buckets one for snow and one for dirt. Will get the one for dirt first then add as needed. ....


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juneau
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16 Juneau Alaska
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2006-10-26          136332


I am so excited about this I am replying to myself.

Will use the bucket or forks also with a reciever hitch for moving trailers.

Tailer positioning/ firewood hauling/ moving stuff around with forks, lifting stuff in and around the shop will be a year round constant.

On the job site the tractor will replace the mule so it will carry extra fuel jugs, hyd oil, tool box, grease gun, and extra excavator bucket from wherever the trailer is to the excavator. It will also be used for moving dirt around the site grading and general dirt utility. Around the harbor ir will move pallets of freight from the trailer onto the boat and pull small boats in and out of the water. I will generally treat it as my truck between the shop and the harbor. Probably drive it back and forth just because I can.

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2006-10-26          136333


Two quick points here. I've got lots of experience moving snow, albeit not to the degree you get it, but here's my two cents worth.

Do *not* get R4's, they are only any good in the winter on full-size (20k + pounds) machines. As DRankin mentioned, they are about useless on a small machine. Chains or studs will help a bunch, but IMHO, and based on many years clearing snow commercially, get full turfs. They will wear faster, but nothing will give you better traction. I used to out-plow R4's with chains, while I was running turfs, with no studs or chains.

Consider a combination unit, A front-mount blade has two big draw-backs, it can't be lifted very high (for stacking snow) and it takes a lot of valuable weight off the front wheels. See my picture # 15. The FEL is held up about 1' off the ground, with all it's weight over the front wheels, then the blade is free to float from there. I can reach up probably 12' with that blade, I can stack snow that high or higher. With a 1/2 or 3/4 of a ton on the 3pth this setup is nearly unstoppable. In icey conditions I can lower both the 3pth weight and the FEL and stop the machine dead in it's tracks no problem.

Best of luck. ....


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yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
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2006-10-26          136334


Murf:

Your front blade could use a couple coats of fresh paint! ....


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juneau
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 16 Juneau Alaska
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2006-10-26          136335


I see you have a whole lot full of tractors with front blades.Then you have a truck plow mounted to your loader arm on a smaller tractor. The truck plow seems to stick out a long way. Is there a way to get one that has a closer mounting system.

You have convinced me that R4s are no good for snow. ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2006-10-26          136338


Pete, fresh paint?? I can mess up old ugly paint just as well as the good stuff. LOL.

Juneau, you've actually got that backwards, most of the sidewalk fleet are smaller than my toy, err, I mean *tool*, tractor at home. A front-mounted blade is only good for one thing, IMHO, cleaning a 42" wide sidewalk on a *very* regular basis. In a big storm, which to us is anything more than about 6" in 24 hours, the sidewalks *must* be plowed before no more than 2" of snow accumulates. Customers rules.

You are right about way out in front though. Yes there is several ways to bring it in closer, but it wouldn't work as well. By having it that far out front it allows the plow to work as it is supposed to on a truck, it's own weight cleans the pavement but it can still float over obstacles. It also allows me to push snow (like pushing over piles and drifts) whithout driving the machine up into the snowbank or pile. I can push snow that is 6'+ ahead of the front wheels.

Best of luck. ....


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