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clbclb
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5 Washington
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2008-12-28          158886


I'm looking for front mount snowblower for JD 4300. I have a hydrolic front blade which works well til the snow gets higher than the blade. I 3/4 mile tree lined dirt road to my house carved into side of hill. When the snow gets too high I have to spend the day pushing the berm over the downhill edge of the road. A snowblower is starting to look more efficient. Appreciate any advice.



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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2008-12-28          158887


If you don't have a traction problem, why not have a metal shop put an extension on the blade to make it effectively taller?

I think only JD blowers would attach to the front of a Deere. ....


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clbclb
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5 Washington
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2008-12-28          158889


Thanks for the suggestion, I will look into it. I am still interested in snowblower option. The road is narrow and with large pines (I have right of way but don't own the property so I can't cut trees down). THe trees make keeping the berm knocked down difficult. ....


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harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY
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2008-12-28          158891


I forget what the cost is for the JD front mount. IT IS PRICEY! That said: I am not sure the blower would stand up to frozen packed snowbanks. It is a very nice blower if you use it for blowing unpacked and unfrozen snow. I would use a very heavy guadge with 3/16 or 1/4 metal thru out for anything heavy packed or frozen.

My next tractor will have JD front mount, Cab a/c heat etc. thats the way to move snow. ....


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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
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2008-12-29          158905


Rear-mount blowers are widely available, and would improve traction and let you keep the front blade. Those factors might make it worthwhile to blow in reverse, especially since you have to blow snow much slower than you can blade it. ....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2008-12-29          158907


Clbclb,

I'm guessing that you probably live on the west side of the Cascades? If so, your snow is probably very heavy and wet.

If I'm way off on my guesses, let me know.

Heavy, wet snow, doesn't blow well at all. You'll find that your blower chute will plug up frequently. It's not much fun to get off the tractor every few minutes to unplug the chute. Still, it might be necessary to attempt to blow it.

I can't help but wonder though if you wouldn't be better off hiring it done. As I understand things, this winter has been something for the record books, as far as snowfall amounts go. If you were to purchase a blower, would you expect to use it heavily every year, or would it just take up room in your storage shed most winters?

Weigh things out and then decide if it wouldn't be better to just hire the work done for this winter. After all, you can hire the work done a whole lot of times for the cost of a blower.

Joel ....


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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
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2008-12-29          158920


Speaking from our area on the west side of the Cascades, about 50 miles west of the coast in NW Oregon, the snow started out quite dry. If it had been blown the first few days it would have been fine, but with temperatures in the 40s it's now heavy slush. ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2008-12-30          158940


Quote:
Originally Posted by candoarms | view 158907
Heavy, wet snow, doesn't blow well at all.You'll find that your blower chute will plug up frequently.It's not much fun to get off the tractor every few minutes to unplug the chute.


Joel, there's a few simple tricks that will mean a LOT less instances of the chute plugging up.

First and foremost, the inside of the chute itself. Wherever possible keep it as smooth as possible and well painted. A couple of times a season use a friction modifier (read: greasy stuff) like that sold for coating the liners of a combine. It satays in place well and is slipperier than you could believe.

Second, try to keep the chute free of ice. A magnetic block heater will help a lot. Even a small layer of ice will cause the snow to start sticking in place.

Finally, try to keep the blower running at as fast a speed as possible. As the blower slows down, the speed of the material slows down too, this gives it a better chance of clogging up the chute.

We have to clear 100's of miles of sidewalks, wet snow and slush is a constant problem for us too.

Best of luck. ....


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clbclb
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5 Washington
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2008-12-30          158950


Thanks, I am considering all options. We are on the east side of cascades near the Idaho border. Snow varies but is frequently wet and heavy. The past 2 winters have been record breakers. I've waited nearly a week now to get someone with a larger blade to come in and knock down the berms. I am reluctant to spend the $5-7K for new equipment but am the only one at the end of our lane. ....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2008-12-30          158951


Clbclb,

I know the feeling. It's not fun to have to wait for someone else to get the work done. Even worse when they don't have time to do it exactly as you'd like.

Should you decide to invest in the equipment, please don't overlook the used market. Things were built a whole lot better in times past, and the cost of used equipment is about half that of new.

Everything mechanical can be rebuilt to like-new condition. Snowblowers are CHEAP to repair. It simply isn't necessary to purchase new stuff.

Happy New Year, Sir.

Joel ....


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2008-12-31          158962


Geez.... just how big are these berms?

If I were in your shoes I would hang about 1500# off the rear end of that green machine, get some big boy chains for the rear wheels and go at it with the FEL.

My Deere is smaller than yours, but it still thinks it's a tank when it is chained up on a snow/ice surface. ....


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clbclb
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5 Washington
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2009-01-01          158986


Thanks again, the contracor finally showed, 3/4 ton truck w tall blade. Unfortunately the snow proved too much and he wound up breaking all his shear bolts before he finished the job. Another 10-12" predicted for today! We might as well move to North Dakota. I am looking at used equipment as well, of course demand is high with this unusual weather pretty much nationwide. I did find 2 new options. The local JD dealer located a new 59" front mount but can only specify delivery some time prior to August. New machine 3900, required attachements and adding front PTO another 1300. Erskine makes a front mount that runs off the rear PTO but looks like it would be overkill for my needs. 7000 for 60" and a few hundred for kits and installation. Likely will have to get by til spring then look again this summer when the used market will pick up. Thanks for all the great input and hope the coming year brings you health and prosperity. ....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2009-01-01          158988


Clbclb,

Thanks for the well wishes for the new year. Same goes to you, Sir.

If your area is about like mine, please check the auction fliers hanging on the wall at your local grocery stores, gas stations, ag dealers, etc. You'll likely find a few farm auction listings, including photos.

The high cost of new equipment drives me nuts. If a snowblower can be purchased on the used market, that's where I'll be.

One benefit of the internet is that a potential bidder can now view the item and bid online. It isn't necessary to drive 100 miles or more to an auction, and then come home with nothing. You can simply bid on the item, live, over the internet. If the item goes too high, you have nothing invested, so you can simply wait for the next auction.

Log on to PROXIBID.COM. Register as a bidder. You can then search the auctions for equipment that comes up for sale in your area. If you don't paying the shipping, you can purchase equipment from anywhere in the nation!

I've purchased several items on PROXIBID. It's a great way to help your neighbor recover some of his expenses, as well as a way to save yourself a pile of hard-earned dough.

Wishing you all the best.

Joel ....


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Hettric
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 133 MA
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2009-01-01          158998


Murf, would you be talking about Slip Plate? Do you do the inside of the blower housing or just the chute? In a earlier thread you mentioned the proper clearance to look for between the fan and blower housing, as I can't find it would you mention it again?
Thanks ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2009-01-05          159091


Slip Plate will certainly work, but several (JD and Case/NH ??) have their own products that are similar (maybe just private-labeled Slip Plate?) but not that brand.

There is no set clearance spec. per se, the fan should just (and I mean JUST) miss the blower housing.

However, since most blower fans are not adjustable at all, it is usually rather moot anyways.

The biggest problem I see around here is blower housings that are all dented out away from the fan blades from rocks and ice and such pounding away at them.

I've got a 6.5' double auger McKee out in the yard right now that was given to me because the fan housing is so beaten up it will hardly toss the snow out the chute. If my back and the spare time allows I'll replace the housing this summer.

Best of luck. ....


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Hettric
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 133 MA
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2009-01-05          159095


I tried out my new to me JD 47" front mount(after straightening the augers/replacing seals and bearings)on my 755 and was a bit disappointed at throw distance. Thats why the questions. I have about 3/8" fan/housing clearance. Housing is not beat up, thought I could build up the fan edge if it would improve performance
Thanks ....


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hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 3583 iowa
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2009-01-05          159096


Hettric: How far is the machine throwing the snow and how far do you think it should? I'm not really up on housing to blade clearance, but much closer than 3/8'ths. might be hard to do without ballance problems etc. on a fan rebuild. ....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2009-01-05          159097


Hettric,

I'm curious to know what the fan diameter is on that blower.

From what I've seen, most front-mount blowers have fans that measure quite a bit smaller in diameter than the rear-mounted types....though I'm not at all familiar with your JD model.

A larger fan produces more tip speed, throwing the snow a greater distance. Smaller fans don't do a very good job of throwing the snow. However, a great deal more horsepower is necessary in order to take advantage of a larger fan.

The best blowers use fans of 22 inches or more in diameter. It's very difficult to put a fan of that size in a front-mounted blower, due to the very low height of the front drive shaft. The angle of the drive-line would be much too steep. The universal joints wouldn't be able to handle such a steep angle when under power.

Joel ....


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Hettric
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 133 MA
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2009-01-05          159098


Hardwood, Distance maybe 16'at best with a "trail" this was fairly light and fluffy, running at PT rpm.
Joel, The fan is 16" 3 blade, I know from your past posts it's rather anemic, but I only have 15 PT HP.
Only got to use for about an hour in the storm, next day went to clean up, caught the auger on something and bent ribbon/support,broke a weld. Shear bolt did shear, it calls for a standard grade 5 1/4" bolt, maybe a grade 2 will be a better choice. When I got it the augers were badly bent, found to my surprise they are dead soft and easily bent or straightened. A number of the ribbon supports have been poorly welded and need to be again but I wanted to get it going so just straightened it. Will fix at least one side now.
Thanks ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-01-05          159099


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hettric | view 159095
I have about 3/8" fan/housing clearance.


3/8" clearance!!?? Good Lord, I'm surprised it would spit snow out of the chute let alone another 16' that way!!

I'd say ours have MAYBE 1/8" clearance, more likely 1/16".

I've never tried it, but know of some who have added heavy rubber flaps to the back of each fan blade to take up the extra clearance. Most used strips of old conveyor belting, it's tough stuff!!

It's very common to have very soft auger material, it will bend then instead of breaking something.

Best of luck. ....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
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2009-01-05          159100


Hettric,

16 feet isn't bad for a blower with a fan of that size. However, the gap between the blades and the fan housing is pretty large.

The majority of the efficiency in a snowblower, like that of a mower, comes in the very last inch or so of the blades. The outer inch of the blades is traveling at the highest rate of speed....or, feet per minute.

A large gap between the blades and the housing is going to cause a lot of snow to be left behind for the next blade to move. The efficiency of your blower is quite low with a gap that big.

The best way to improve your blower's efficiency is to make the blades longer, with the ultimate goal being to close down that gap. Some people are tempted to close the gap by putting a filler material (rubber belting) in the fan housing, but this isn't a good idea. Increase the length of the fan blades, instead.

Balancing the fan isn't too difficult. If you find that it's out of balance after the repair, please write back. There's a redneck way of balancing fan blades, drive-shafts, etc. It's simple, effective, and free.

Joel
....


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Hettric
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 133 MA
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2009-01-05          159101


I'd be interested in your balancing trick in any case. I can't imagine adding a 1/4" of material to each tip would change much on a fan of this weight, but would try to do the best job in any case.
Thanks
Just was able to measure and need to correct, I have 1/4" gap, the fan doesn't look to bad, maybe there was never a much closer fit. ....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
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2009-01-05          159102


Hettric,

Being that it's over 200 miles to the nearest drive-shaft balancing shop, I've had to come up with a way of doing this stuff myself.

With a little searching on the internet, I found a guy with a 4x4 club who left some helpful hints and tips for repairing and balancing a drive-shaft after breaking one on the trail. I've tried it, and it WORKS!

Assuming that the fan is direct drive, and spins at a 1:1 ratio with the PTO shaft........(if not, this trick won't work)

If the fan is out of balance, the housing will shake badly at full rpms. Using the tractor's hydraulics, raise the blower housing off the ground just an inch or so. Run the blower at high enough rpms to make it shake slightly. It's not necessary to make is shake like crazy.....just a little.

Using a long pencil, move the pencil very slowly in toward the PTO shaft, just until it makes contact with the drive shaft. Immediately after making contact with the drive shaft, remove the pencil and shut down the tractor. The pencil will have left a mark on the HEAVY side of the fan blade. You then weld a small amount of weight (such as a metal washer) to the underside of the fan blade opposite of the mark on the driveshaft.....that's the blade that's underweight.

Test again using the same trick. You may find that you'll need to add weight in other area, or you may find that you added too much. Remember to erase the pencil marks between tests. If you added too much, you can simply grind down the washer a bit.

Those offroader guys have save me a pile of money and trouble.

Joel ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-01-05          159103


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hettric | view 159101
I have 1/4" gap, the fan doesn't look to bad, maybe there was never a much closer fit.


I suspect if the blower is a few years old it has just worn down from all the sandy slushy snow running through it.

I'd be adding strips of rubber not steel if it was me. Less fuss and no balancing concerns.

Best of luck. ....


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Hettric
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 133 MA
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2009-01-05          159112


Thanks Joel, but not 1to1 pt (mid pt with gear box reduction)
Murf I'd be with you on the rubber, but there is a brace to the backside of the blades. I see 3 options - do nothing (for now), build up the fan edges with weld, or make adjustable "blades" to bolt (into slotted holes) on the front of the existing blades. The latter is the most permanent as I can adjust for future wear, but this project is losing it's appeal for the moment and I still want to add gauge wheels for my dirt (frequently not frozen) drive.
Thanks for the help ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2009-01-06          159119


Gotcha, but the rubber strips go on the fronts of the fan blades, not the back, all you need is space for a couple of 1/4" nuts. Put a piece of strap steel over the rubber to secure it though, or the heads will pop through the rubber.

You also need to check that the clearance is uniform all the way around the fan. I've seen some that nearly touched at one point, and 180° away it had 1/2" of clearance. If that is the way yours is you have no choice but to use flexible extensions, or do some major surgery.

Best of luck. ....


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Hettric
Join Date: Mar 2004
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2009-01-11          159323


Murf, I went with your suggestion on the conveyor belting and other mods to great success!If you think it Worth it maybe you could move our and Joel's conversation to a new "snowblower improvements" thread and I will follow up on what I did(with pictures). It's info I would have liked to find in one spot.
Thanks ....


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Murf
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2009-01-12          159350


Glad to hear it was of use to you and got you some better performance out of it!

Unfortunately a new thread is no easier to find than any other thread using the search feature.

Best of luck. ....


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