Go Bottom

Grader Blade

View my Photos
Normando
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 30 New Hampshire
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2006-08-09          133130


I just recently purchased a grading blade for 30 hp tractor. I played around with it and it works great. But I have a question and I would like to hear what other peoples experience may be.

I am using it to level my dirt driveway which has some large dips (not pot holes). While dragging the drive (flat area) the blade works nice. But in the area where this is a large dip, as the front of the tractor starts to drive out of the dip, the blade drives into the driveway. I’ve been manually raising the blade so it doesn’t dig in. Does this sound right? Your thoughts.




Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 3583 iowa
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2006-08-09          133131


Normando; For the reasons you mention controling a back blade manually is difficult. If you have a loader on the tractor my best method is to drag the dirt to the edge of the dip then use the loader bucket to backdrag the dirt where you want it to be. Being able to see directly what is going on with the loader just makes it a bunch easier. However if you don't have a loader you can acomplish what you want done just as you are diong it but it just takes practice and patience. Lots of luck. Frank. ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2006-08-09          133132


You can also cheat just a little bit.

Swivel the blade way around to either the left or right and try it again.

By turning the blade you are effectively making it much longer fore to aft than it is as when it's 90° to the direction you are traveling. More importantly, the blade itself becomes basically a bridge. By the time the back edge can "fall in" the front edge has already reached, and is sitting on, the front of the hole.

The result is that the balde cannot drop or change angle like it can when it's perpendicular to the direction of travel.

An aggressive angle also helps fill the hole faster by slicing through the raised rim of the hole and dumping the material in the depression.

Best of luck. ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2006-08-09          133133


Having shoes mounted to the end of the blade helps. That can sometimes limit the scalping. ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
Normando
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 30 New Hampshire
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2006-08-09          133134


Frank thank you for the quick reply. Its kind of funny that you mentioned that method becuase that is what I have been doing. I have been draging the low areas with my FEL. ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
SG8NUC
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 579 g
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2006-08-09          133136


An old farmer told me to use a mid mounted scraper blade so I gave it a try. It was easy to see and the tractor was strattled the hole dumping the dirt at the right time. I used one and it is so much easier than a rear mounted. Sadly I use and own a rear mount, the tractor was not set up for MM. The FEL is what I use the most if I want a half way smooth road. ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2006-08-09          133140


I commercially use a 6' box scraper with a home-built hydraulic top link on my 33HP blue. Aside from using a big skidsteer for very rough grading and filling, the box scraper is all I use for both rough and fine grading. The hyd. top link allows me to raise the front of the box slightly and pull material around. The back blade just doesn't have enough down pressure to be worth while. ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2006-08-10          133167


Depending on the situation and your blades ability to rotate, rotate the blade and push it over the low areas, thus helping level them before the tractor gets to them.

You also can pull the dirt up to the low area and turn the tractor around without rotating the blade and you will probably will still be able to push a good bit of the dirt into the low area.

You did not mention or I missed it but it would appear your tractor does not have a draft option to where it trys to keep the load level, if you do this is the type of work it helps with.

....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2006-08-12          133234


There is a company that is currently building mid mount grader blades for compacts. ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
bvance
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 280 The Great Pacific NorthWet, Olympia, WA
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2006-08-12          133235


I agree with everything that has been said and have the same problem. My solution has been as you have been doing, lifting the blade and dumping the load in the dip. With each successive pass the dip will be less pronounced and as a result the front of the tractor will lift less and less and soon you can drag over that spot without lifting the blade. It takes some practice and "feel" but that will come.

As with most tools, there is never a perfect solution, but I've found sitting in the tractor seat sure beats being on the end of a shovel!

Brian ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2006-08-12          133239


I solved the problem when I built my driveway by putting adjustable wheels on the back of my box scraper and towing it like a trailer.

I put the ball hitch as close as possible to the rear axle and that took about 90 percent of the undulations out of the system.

See Picture # 11. More detailed photos are available. ....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo



Grader Blade

View my Photos
lbrown59
Join Date:
Posts: 1
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2006-08-12          133241


I've found sitting in the tractor seat sure beats being on the end of a shovel!

Brian

*************
I agree and I've also discovered that the crank on a load handler beats the shovel too.

....


Reply to | Quote Post Reply to PostQuote Reply | Add PhotoAdd Photo


   Go Top


Share This







Member Login