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cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000
Posts: 1307 The South Shore of Lake Ontario, New York
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2001-12-22          33972


I have heard that spacer are required for the rear tires on a 2910 in order to install tire chains. I placed mine over the tire today and it looks mighty close to the fender. I have a set that was on a slightly larger tire that will have to be cut down lengthwise, but the extra width seems to put the outside portion further towards the rim, which helps a bit there. Are these spacers redily available through Kubota? Do you run yours without spacers Bird? Thanks.



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Bird Senter
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2001-12-22          33976


Cutter, are you asking me? LOL. I live in Texas; don't play in the snow (don't have any to play in), and don't use chains. ....


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cutter
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2001-12-22          33979


Well Bird, I guess that says it all. Perhaps Art would know. I can't believe there isn't a way to install them. I have heard they are available, unfortunately my dealer is closed today and I had the task at hand, with chains out and torch ready to do a bit of modification. Have to get ready for another Christmas party now. Bye. ....


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Elkoboy
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2001-12-22          33985


I put chains on my B2910 without spacers. ....


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cutter
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2001-12-22          33986


Have you had any problem with them hitting the inside of the fender at all? I don't want to wreck the paint job. Thanks for the reply. ....


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warren
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2001-12-23          33999


I hav a 4300 john deere i turned the wheels around and left them that way. but i have turf tires adds stablity also and didn't bother mowing plus didn't have to buy spasers.
work good for me.
Warren ....


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Elkoboy
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2001-12-23          34003


Well it is admittedly tight there between the wheel and the fender. I have R4s on my 2910 and I bought the 2 link chains from tirechains.com. The only chain I had hit the fender was the loose links of the chain on the inside past the hook, which I stretched and wired to another link. That had to be done carefully or it would have hit the fender for sure. I plan on cutting the excess chain links so that will solve that problem in the future (is that not advised btw?).

If you really want to be positive you don't scratch your fenders you probably want the spacers. Considering late fall and early winter where I live (MN) there's mud everywhere on the fenders (and elsewhere) that cover my scratches. ;-) ....


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cutter
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2001-12-23          34005


Elkoboy, thank you! I have to call the dealer Monday and see if he knows anything about them. I have my torch ready to cut the chains down anyway, so I will trim as needed to prevent loose ends. Actually, the spacers should give the tractor a bit more stability on hills, so it may be a win/win scenario. This machine has a lower center of gravity than the TC did but it is narrower, negating the effect somewhat. ....


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Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2001-12-24          34017


Watch out as to which chains you are useing as double ring farm style need to be kept tight. We have put on several with truck style which is a smaller link and causes less problems. We still put chains on less than five percent of the tracotors we sell for snow removal. ....


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cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000
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2001-12-24          34021


I have a set of Ladder type from the other machine I was planning on cutting down for the 2910. Do you think that machine will operate effectively without them Art? I have the Curtis loader blade on the front and a three point blade on the rear. Thanks Art. ....


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Elkoboy
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2001-12-24          34022


Well, I'll interject my opinions on your last question, Cutter.

The reason I bought chains this year for my B2910 is because last year I discovered that my R4s slipped too often on the unimproved surfaces and sometimes on the gravel (but rarely) that I was running on. The most disconcerting slippage for me was sideways on slight inclines off my gravel driveways.

I use my tractor in winter to both clear snow, and do light farm routines, such as loader work (mostly manure loads) and moving round bales with a 3 point spear. Some of those duties require that I be off improved surfaces.

Otherwise, generally the 4 wheel drive did fine, as long as I wasn't on a steep hill. But when I got off the driveways I wasn't comfortable with the traction I was getting. If there is much ice under the snow I've also had some slippage problems even on relatively flat improved surfaces.

I would say that on driveways only with little to no incline you might not need chains at all. Last year I only got stuck once when I dropped my front wheels off the driveway into a slight dip and there was enough ice that I couldn't get good traction with the rear wheels and back out of it (even trying to lift the front end with the bucket).

The chains I got from tirechains.com were regular ladder style two link spacing types (the only other type they sold for that size R4 was regular 4 link chains). ....


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Art White
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2001-12-24          34023


Cutter, I can't remember what you got for tires on your tractor. The industrials are about the worst for traction in the winter but the bulk of them have to much air in them and no flexability. The ladder type do come with different types of cross chain and that is where you can get into trouble. The double ring is most aggressive and is ideal for field work. The small link or road type chain will give you more clearance on the sides. We do not sell that many chains for the compacts. When people ask when purchasing tractors I will give them a price to hold thru the snow season, I haven't had anyone come in to get them nor do many people use them a year after they have them. Paved drives and turf tires are the best but if you have to get off the normal drive and go to the back forty then you might need them more. ....


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cutter
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2001-12-24          34030


I have the r-4's on my 2910 as well. Seems to me they were not as good on the tc last year as the turfs I once had, so I sure agree with that. I'll try messing with the pressure and see what happens with these. My only problem is a ditch across the road where I push most of my snow. If the front tires drop into it too far, I lose the traction on the rear and have a heck of a time getting out, even using the blade to lift and push. This only happens when we have a lot of snow and I have to start ramping and pushing back to make room for more. With the Curtis blade, I lose most of the help the front end can give as well. I think I may have to make an intermediate plate for the curl cylinders and attach a chain to it to allow the plow to float more like a truck unit. That should help with the traction. ....


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Art White
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2001-12-26          34058


Cutter have you got the hydraulic angle on your blade? That should [if you haveit] get you out of some of those comprimising situations. I know we talked about the air pressure before on the board but be sure you are running with full bars on the ground. ....


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cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000
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2001-12-26          34070


Yes Art, I did purchase the hydro-turn model. Generally when I get nose down I have to lift and push with the implement while backing and holding the traction lock. That is the ONE reason that I have not modified the Curtis to operate with the chain stop and unhooked the curl cylinders. I am thinking about a way to use a secondary mounting plate to allow some free movement of the blade and still give me the ablility to curl the plow in times of need. Haven't come up with a good design yet. ....


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Canuck
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 15 Manitoba Canada
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2003-01-25          48099


Put your money into good chains! Actually, get the best chains. I have 7/16 stud grader chains on my B2400. Even if the chain slips into the Ag tire lugs, there is a 1/2 inch stud still sticking out. Best traction I have found. My next project is to double chain my set. I had to hand build them as I couldn't find them available from any dealer. ....


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kay
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2003-01-25          48121


Cutter
I had similar concerns about putting on tire chains on R-4's and not having much room between the fender for the chains. I also did not want to rip up (or scratch) the fenders of my Deere 4300 (too "dear" to me).

What I did was to shorten the cross links so they didn't come down on the sides of the tires, but instead, the side chains lay in the hollow at the ends of the R-4 lugs. It works real well. I don't know if you have the side chain length yet on your chains that you described, but wanted to let you know what my solution was. Mine are ladder style. I cut off all excess links on the inside side chain, and do all the tightening on the outside side chain.
Still run the risk of breaking a link in the cross chains and having the loose end flop around and do damage to the inside of the fender, but will hope that does not happen for awhile. The chains have only been necessary one winter out of four (at the rate this one is going this year with no snow (yet) in the northern midwest). Chains are only needed when there is ice from rain on snow or melting/freezing of snow. Otherwise, on cold snow there is no need for chains. Also, there is no problem with cross chains getting between the lugs, as all of them can't get there and stay there. Good luck with the chain fitting. ....


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cutter
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2003-01-25          48124


Kay,

I use the R-4's on this machine without chains now. It works great and for some reason the Kubota has better traction with them than did the N/H. Different brand tire and more PSI due to a bit narrower footprint probably. I used the Curtis Blade only a few times and was not happy with it, put it up for sale and use the rear blade, loader combo and when the going is nasty I have an 8.5 foot blade for my new truck. ....


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kay
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2003-01-25          48129


Sure sounds like a winning combination.

I noted the age of your post after I posted, and was thinking it was this weekend you were working on tire chains. But maybe someone else will get an idea or two that will help them. ....


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