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Anybody have a dump trailer

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2005-03-30          109124


I am thinking about getting a 10 or 12 foot dump trailer.... not a farm type but a street legal deal.

I have narrowed it down to a 7000 pound GVW/dual axle.

Anything to watch out for? Any words of advice?




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Anybody have a dump trailer

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denwood
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 542 Quarryville PA
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2005-03-30          109143


A deck between dumper is nicer to haul equipment with lower deck height and it is more stable, but a little more difficult to dump since deck gets closer to the ground, but if I were to buy one, I think I would go for that rather than the deck over. I have an off road deck over by Pronovost with 3 way dump, and they make some neat ones for on the road too, but a little salty. ....


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naildriver
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2 WI
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2005-03-31          109164


I have a dump trailer I use for my construction business. I would say for my work it probably the handiest trailer I own.I have 6'6" wide by 12' long box, it has 14,000 lb. gross weight rating. The manufacturing company is Sands out of MN. I purchased it 5 years ago from a dealer in Grantsburg WI. I belive he still sells the same brand. It has a battery to run the hydraulic system. I would recomend this type since even with daily heavy use its been trouble free. ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2005-03-31          109178


If you are going to actually use it as a dump trailer on a regular basis, most people don't, there are a few small things that will make it more usable.

First of all, go with one that has a post hoist as opposed to the scissor lift style, the post type lifts better if the load is front-end heavy and will not twist up. Scissor mechanisms are notorious for buckling sideways under big, or unbalanced loads, an expensive oopsey.

Secondly, as Denwood touched on, be cognizant of the distance between the bottom of the box and the ground when it is all the way up. I have seen some that the rear overhang was long enough that a) it bent the frame rails, and b) lifted the trailer off the suspension when all the way up on uneven ground.

Third, be sure it has the 'two way' doors, they swing open to dump, and drop down as ramps. The straight 'barn doors only' type are a PITA to use as a float because you have to mess around with ramps.

Fourth, if you plan on using the dump as a float, be sure to order tie downs, or better still, little flaps over openings in the front corners and tie rings outside. Chaining inside the dump with a CUT in there also is an exercise in acrobatics best left to younger folks than us. To this end, unless you will be constantly hauling lots of light, bulky stuff, order fairly short sides with stake pockets on top. Lifting out a board or two sure beats trying to fold your lunch over the side to reach the binders.

Fifth, and most importantly, resist the temptation to get a 2 & 5/16" ball coupler on it, go with a lunette ring & pintle hook coupler setup. Dump trailer get VERY light on the hitch when you are either loading or unloading (dump or drive) something heavy. My dump, which is basically the same as you are contemplating (just visible on the brown truck in my picture # 5) will almsot lift the back of the truck off the ground when loading the 'Bota or SSL or dumping a heavy load.

Finally, if possible, spec. it out with either 16" or 16.5" tires NOT the 14.5 UTG (mobile home) type tires, they run down the road WAY nicer, and will not fall off the rim when a little soft. UTG's are wORSE than underinflated R4's are for coming off the rim.

Best of luck. ....


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Anybody have a dump trailer

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yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
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2005-03-31          109180


Mark:
I have the deck over style which is higher for better dumping. I upgraded mine from 3,500 pound axles to 5,000 pound that comes larger tires which I thought (and is) better if driving over soft terrain. It is a little bouncey driving down the road empty. The deckover style is narrower if you need to get in tight spots. The tongue is high and I use a solid receiver bar with inverted 4" drop and 2 5/16" ball.

Mine has a single cylinder that has trouble lifting at times although I'm prone to overloading. Check out the diameter size of the cylinder(s) for lift capacity. I am overloading it which is common for me especially toward the front.

You can get several options and I don't know the correct terms. Suggest getting one with a taller headboard than the sides. That way if you like, you can install a 2 x 6 on the sides to make sideboards which help with cubic feet capacity when hauling lighter materials. It also helps to build a taller pile of heavier materials directly over the wheels which helps not only in trailering but also ease of dumping. Third reason is when you miss and hit the sides with your loader, etc. you can through the board away and get a newone. With mine, the deckover will tilt very tall, like 80 degrees or more.

You can also get a built-in roll-up fabric mesh cover/tarp that mounts on the headboard to meet highway transportation specs for hauling sand/stone/woodchips, etc.

Mine has a regular tailgate the same height as the sides. It has pins on top to let the tailgate fold down. It also has pins on the bottom to let the tailgate fold up if you want to dump and regulate the amount coming out like to spread a driveway. Some manufacturers have a handle at the left front corner that allows you to trip this function without re-moving pins. Another option is to have a tailgate that has supports and hinges that are about 2 foot above the sideboards. This allows you to dump thicker and loose materials through the bottom release. Often these types of tailgates have solid halves that go to the height of the sides and expanded metal for the upper half. This then also functions as a ramp.

If you have a deckover design it is too tall to attempt to try driving up vehicles/atvs, mowers, etc. If you have a lower model, you can also get a thicker metal bottom which can handle a concentrated load like a heavy tractor.

Most trailers have terrible paint jobs. The paint will wear off on the deck real fast and rust. If you spray it with line-X or whatever, it has a sticky texture that inhibits good sliding and slipage. In Michigan the road salts, etc. have rusted the bottom of the trailer also. I'm planning to sell mine and get a new one and immediately spray the bottom/underneath with line-X.

Allot of trailer manufacturers serving the Mid-West are located around Elkardt, IN. One very larger trailer manufacturer is there that sells from RV's, campers, flatbeds, utility and dump trailers. That is forestriver.com and then you can go to their many divisions. I paid about $3,500.00 for mine with spare, tall headboard, no tarp cover about 4-5 years ago.

Another real popular brand is the "Rascal". Someone on this site has posted a picture of it. In our area Bri-Mar is popular. Beagle once said in a post that Bri-mar's have a bad reputation as not being able to lift loads even with twin cylinders. I don't know about that but Bri-Mars are about as popular as Rascals.

Last fall mine neighbor and I built sideboards for 4' tall sides to haul woodchips, I can get 9 yards on her! Happy shopping!!! ....


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Anybody have a dump trailer

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yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
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2005-03-31          109190


If you look at photo 17 under drcjv you will see the rascal which is a model of the Bri-Mar. I had thought they were different companies. ....


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Anybody have a dump trailer

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091755
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 143 brantwood wisconsin
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2005-03-31          109196


Dump trailers

I have a 5 foot wide by 8 foot long by one
foot high Midsota Manufacturing with a 3500
single axel. I have no lights or springs
because I only use it on my property. It has
a hydraulic hoist run by a 12 volt battery.
Once you learn how to use it, you will find it
to really be a handy item. I can put close to
2 yards of gravel (unless the gravel is wet or
the land I have to cross is wet). I hauled over
400 yards of gravel (YES-that # is right) last summer. Your dual
axel 7000 sounds right. Not sure what width or
height you plan to fill it to or with what. I
am very happy with mine. I went small because
I have to cross low land to get where I am going.
Also, it takes some power to pull this when full.
I use my WD-45 Allis Chalmers and it handles it well.

doc ....


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yaffer
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 5 Brookshire, TX
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2005-03-31          109199


I have a 12' X 88" W X 4'H dump trailer with dual 7000 # axles and load range G tires. I use it to haul manure and wood shavings for my horses. Make sure hydraulic system battery charges off vehicle. It's a bummer when you go to dump and there's not enough juice left. I should have gotten 3' sides and 14 foot length because my tractor bucket just barely goes over the side when loading and it's hard to evenly spread the load inside. With tall sides like I have, it would be easy to overload trailer if I filled it with sand or rock. Trailer was made by TARGET, an east TX company. Rear doors swing like barn doors to both sides. You must make sure to hook them back before dumping or they will contact the ground and slide off the hinges (voice of experience talking here). I probably should have gotten rear door hinged at top like a tandem dump truck for my purpose but if I had, it would have made loading into the trailer difficult if you ever used it for hauling something that had to be loaded from the rear by forklift or by ramp. ....


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Anybody have a dump trailer

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2005-04-01          109254


My biggest problem was I kept trying to figure out how to combine the features of a 16 foot flatbed and a dump trailer.

It can be done..... but not with a 7200 pound towing capacity. The only option was to have two trailers.

I got a locally made 6x10 deck-over yesterday for $4200 plus all the taxes and such. The first load was 4000+ pounds of old concrete foundation chunks.

It dumped that load with no problem what-so-ever. That would have been a serious pain in the a$$ to unload by hand. Geez, I am glad those days are over.

My wallet is feeling guilty but my back is feeling fine.

Thanks to all for the input. ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2005-04-01          109257


My father told when I was starting my business that I needed to remember to direct & delegate.

Then as I was getting older, and started having back problems, he told me to start working more with my head, and less with my brain.

Now I've pretty much figured out the part I missed.

My back defers to my brain, my brain directs & delegates my wallet on how best to accomplish the task.

The work is not nearly as hard now...... LOL.

Best of luck. ....


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Blueman
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 243 Washington, PA
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2005-04-01          109262


I have a Pronovost 5x8 off road, dual axle model that came with my (used) TC45D package; the bed is over the axles. This thing weighs a ton just by itself, very well built. One of my neighbors has a Bri-Mar. He is as happy with his as I am with mine. My only problem is I don't have a FEL for my tractor to load it yet... ....


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dieseltrctr
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 21 Kansas
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2005-08-23          115304


I bought a Load Trail gooseneck with 2 7000# axles. Only complaint was the cheapo tires that came on it. One tire threw the tread within 3 months of purchase. I think most manufacturers install the cheapest tires they can find. Regarding the earlier thread regarding a truck type hoist: It is my understanding that you have a greater mechanical advantage with a scissor type hoist over the models that just shove the cylinder ends against the bed. I also talked to a dump trailer owner before I purchased mine. He got rid of his bumper pull and got a gooseneck. A bumper pull will lift the front end of the truck off the ground while dumping under the right conditions! Just my 2cents. Good luck with your purchase....they are labor and time savers! ....


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denwood
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 542 Quarryville PA
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2005-08-23          115311


I believe you have a couple things backwards. Scissor hoists are just easier to place and allow a shorter hyd. cylinder. That is their mechanical advantage, moving the dump bed farther with a short stroke. The mechanical advantage for strength goes with the straight cylinder. Dumping a heavy load may lift the rear of the truck, not the front. The tongue weight will never be heavier than when the bed is down. ....


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dieseltrctr
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 21 Kansas
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2005-08-23          115313


Thanks for setting me straight on the scissor type hoist denwood. Sorry, I did mean it would lift the rear end off the ground. I think the best overall advice on dump trailers is to respect the overall load limitations...trailer and truck GVWR. Ever get behind a trailer that looks like it is wanting to peek around each side of the truck thats towing it? :-) Be Safe! ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2005-08-24          115340


Dieseltrctr, be really careful with that gooseneck dump, or any dump that doesn't have a pintle hitch / lunette ring style coupler for that matter.

I have seen some really nice trucks really mashed up from coming unhitched while dumping.

The positive lock of the pintle hitch is the only style of hitch that is designed to take an upwards load securely, the rest, ball or pin, are really only designed to take enough upwards load to stay hitched during something like a big pothole. They only 'lock' by pinching in on a very small area on the mating device, ball or pin.

With a surprisingly little bit of wear, or a misadjusted coupler, they will disconnect in a heartbeat.

To prevent this from happening you should place some blocking, timbers, jack-stands, anything, under the rear of the trailer frame, NOT the dump body. This will support the rear and not allow the weight transfer to occur and thus eliminate the possibility of a problem.

Best of luck. ....


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2005-11-28          119990


So Murf........ you really got me thinking.

It is a bit late to get the pintle hitch/lunette ring set-up you so wisely recommend. What do you think of the ball hitches with the pintle goodies over the top?

Is it a worthwhile alternative?

....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2005-11-28          120011


Mark it's never too late, it's actually surprisingly simple to convert a ball hitch to a pintle style.

The lunette ring and adjustable height bracket together are about 8" deep, all you have to do is cut the tongue off directly behind the existing coupler and weld on the new coupler set.

The nice part about the adjustable couplers is the style of hitch is then also 'adjustable' since the 2", 2.3125" & lunette ring style couplers all fit into the same base plate.

The down'n'dirty version is, as you mentioned, to use the pintle / ball hitch combo unit. While it's not a perfect system, it certainly is better than nothing.

The two big problems I have with those style hitches are that the lunette ring doesn't sit in them as well, you get a lot of banging around in the coupler, and the ratings are significantly lower on those than on traditional style pintle hooks.

If you have (and use) jackstands at the rear of the dump trailer it negates the dire safety need for a pintle / lunette ring combo IMHO.

Best of luck. ....


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2005-11-28          120018


I use jack stands on the flatbed when I haul the tractor and it is real easy to do so because the end of the trailer frame is so accessible.

The dumper is another issue. I am NOT crawling under that thing at the same landfill where people dump tons of animal poop to set up a jack stand.

I don't weld, and around here the average welding shop will not touch a trailer or a hitch unless they are certified and carry special liability insurance. You wouldn't believe how much it costs to get a small job done under such circumstances.

I have found some combo hitches that fit in a 2 inch receiver on the internet that are rated for a 3000 pound vertical load. My truck weighs 5000 pounds with me in it and the rear end is lighter than the front so it would appear on paper to be strong enough.

I will probably never actually tow something that has a lunette ring. What do you think? ....


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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2005-11-28          120031


It just occurred to me that I am making a huge assumption here...... that these things are designed to lock down over the top of a regular trailer hitch.

Now I wonder........ ....


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2005-11-29          120039


Mark, didn't they teach you about not second guessing yourself? Just go with your giut feeling? ROFLMAO.

Seriously, you brought up two points.

First jack stands, no need to climb in or under, or do any fancy welding. You can use almost anything. It can be as simple as a piece of rope and two wooden blocks. Take two short(ish) pieces of timber a little smaller than the clearance from frame to ground. Put a screw eye in each end of both, tie a rope between them such that when one block is under the frame, the other is too, then tie a piece of rope to each outiside end also. Then all you have to do is set the blocks dwn behind the trailer, back up another foot or two, and then pull the rope till the blocks are under the frame tails. Voila! Best of all it's cheap! LOL.

On the other hand, the pintle, yes they are designed to lock down shut, but only over a lunette ring, they are to stay open with a ball hitch. However, if the latch mechanism is removed (one small nut & bolt usually) and ground down some, it can be set to 'lock down' while still open a little bit, enough for the coupler, but not enough to become unhitched.

The other (slightly more spendy) option is to just have a small set of stabilizers installed such as those used on RV's to auto level them. You can get them in individual components, cylinders, etc., seperately, and since you already have hydraulics and controls, installation (no welding required) would be easy to do yourself. You might want help with the hydraulics if you're unsure of how to do it. I'm sure the bunch here could guide you through it 'long distance', it's actually pretty simple.

Best of luck. ....


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